Puppies

All Puppies Whelped 3.16.17 are SOLD!

To be added to our next breeding list for Preacher + Faith, email Patrick@patrickpark.us
Puppies will be ready for their new homes December 2017.






Preacher + Tulip's puppies whelped 3.16.17
3 females, 4 males
Contact Patrick 314-420-2600
or email patrick@patrickpark.us
to reserve your puppy!





Puppies are here + ready for their new homes before Christmas 2016!

5 puppies were whelped on November 4th.
All Puppies SOLD, please email Patrick if you would like to be added to our 2017 waiting list.

Contact Patrick
314-420-2600
or email patrick@patrickpark.us


Your puppies dew claws are removed on day three. The puppy will be wormed (Panacur C) three times at weeks 3, 6, and 8.  They will have their first round of vaccinations (PrimeMune Vaccine) at 6 weeks, they will be due for their second round of puppy shots at 9 weeks of age, and their third round of  vaccinations at 12 weeks of age.  

Additionally, Rabies vaccination will be administered by your Veterinarian at 16 weeks. Once they are weaned they are fed ORIJEN Large Breed Dry Puppy Food. At this age we feed the pups three times a day. Our home is a clean environment for the beginning stages of life for the puppy; they will be given a bath at-least once a week.
I will give you educational support that will be helpful for the raising and nurture of your new Labrador Retriever puppy. Be sure to call and visit at your convenience (314) 420-2600.

The Labrador Retriever puppy will be introduced to Duck, Grouse, Pheasant, and Quail wing on dummies, Avery & Dokken dummies, collar, British slip leads, water, children, whistle preparation for positive reinforcement commands (chow time), and introductory command forms such as Sit, Stay, and Here. ***Microchip identification is available at your request by the HomeAgain service.

Each puppy has a health guarantee and to be free from hip and elbow dysplasia until 30 months of age.  Additionally, the puppy is guaranteed to be free from any hereditary eye defects until 30 months of age.
  
*Additional shipping fees may apply for Domestic or International purchases.


Health Information: Health Records will be included

Crate Training Rules: Use a plastic kennel crate

Make sure the crate is only big enough for them to turn around and lay down comfortably. Let them out first by carrying them or walking on leash to a designated area.
(Eventually, they will learn where that area is so they can walk themselves.) Do not let them run around the house and have control when you open the crate.

If they do not go to the bathroom when you let them out ALWAYS put them back in the crate before giving them a chance to be loose in the house. Try again when they cry to go out.

Always feed in the crate. (Supply water outside of the crate so you can regulate how much and when they get it. Pull water supply after 7 PM unless it is hot and/or they have been playing hard.)

Tell them "kennel" every time they go in, even if you have to help them. After a brief training session you can use freeze dried liver treats or hot dogs to give an extra positive reinforcement on the command.

They will need to go to the bathroom after waking up, eating, drinking and playing.
Signs of having to go are circling, sniffing, and going to another room. ALWAYS have eyes on them in the house. You must watch them or place them IN THE CRATE!
If you have ANY accidents inside or outside of crate, do not scold just pick up and take outside. Try to pick up in the mid stream so they can finish in the right place - Use Nature's Miracle in all places where there is an accident.

When they do go outside or in the designated area praise them verbally or with a treat.

Barking must only be used to go to the bathroom. Not to play. You control playtime -not them. That is why by placing the crate in a central part of the house you make them feel included in the family even if they are in the crate. When they first come home the pup will cry, it is the first time away from their litter. Don't give in by letting them out, it will end.

Schedule
Early morning: Take out of crate to go to the bathroom immediately. Rapid response is beneficial. This may be the time to pick them up until they are a little older.

If you are leaving for the day make sure they are in a fenced exercise pen with shade and water outside on concrete or patio stones, no sand, grass, dirt or pebbles. Every month of age is how many hours they can hold from doing potty (One month puppy= one hour, etc.) Maximum six hours at six months old.

Mid-afternoon: Let out of crate to go to the bathroom. After doing potty, give them water and exercise and take back to the crate while feeding one cup of dry food.

Again same rules apply to crate training. Keep an eye on water intake. If they do not go before eating make sure you let pup out right after eating- they will let you know. If you have pup out in the house playing with a chew toy just keep track of time. Think ahead of them for awhile so you can take them out before they have to go. Over time being outside will allow them to learn it is the only place for potty.

Afternoon: Let out to go to the bathroom and water. Feed last meal for the day. Remember NO WATER after 7 P.M. unless they have been playing hard and showing signs of thirst.

Evening: Before going to bed make sure they have used the outside for potty. In the beginning you may have some nighttime visits.

Commands
HERE
SIT
KENNEL
OUT
OFF

Use small bits of freeze dried liver or hot dogs in a plastic Ziploc bag in your pocket. Only used in moderation to get attention by young pups. At this age they need food rewards. Please do not let this be a part of their normal diet.
Person giving the command must complete the command!
Dogs like to establish who is the alpha in the "pack". So make sure that there is no misunderstanding of being in charge. Be aware to be gentle with pups making sure there is understood boundaries while in the pack. If you work with them 5 minutes a day walking on the lead and doing some sit and stay commands, it can make a big difference. Life is not all play. They need to understand when you put the leash on it is work and no play.

HERE
At this age you can only begin a short distance away. Have them on a leash. Let them go out at the end of the lead and begin to call them by saying their name and "here". Get down low and open your arms, get excited and praise them as they come into your arms- offer the treat and provide affirmation. Make sure you reel in the leash gently.
You will also use this command when they are walking on your left side only. Have the treat piece in your right hand and the leash in the left hand. Keep gently bringing them back to the side of your leg and saying "here". Bend down to stop the jumping. Sometimes if the pup knows you have a treat they will try to jump up. Keep a straight arm on the leash and if needed a little tap on the head saying "off".
Now there will be times when they are loose and get distracted, gently guide them. You can get down low and clap and say "here". Sometimes even the best puppy will turn off his ears and run in the wind, therefore other sounds may be called in to help like a whistle, tapping a bowl, a favorite squeaky toy…once you get their attention make sure you give them a reason to come to you. Be very excited, clap, sometimes running away will get them to chase you. Once you know they have committed you can stop and praise. This will not last forever, it just shows the positive behavior instead of scolding them for bad. Eventually they will only know how to be disciplined. But, remember they are puppies! Never have them loose anywhere near a road or an area where they could get hurt.

SIT
The "sit" is a command that they will naturally learn at this age much faster than when they are older. This command is in tandem with the "stay" command. You may again have to use positive reinforcement by gently placing your right hand on their rear back and lifting their chins up with your left hand and at the same time say "sit", "good dog". You can also incorporate a treat from your left hand. If they are on the leash you can use the leash to lift the head up. Later on when they are walking on your side when you stop they will learn to sit/stay by your side. Don't worry about this now. One thing to consider is if they begin to sit, go ahead and say the command "sit".

KENNEL
This command will not only be used for the crate but eventually when you want them in the car and even when they lay on their dog bed, command ("place"), it will be helpful. If it is feeding time you can have the food ready and use the food as a means to put them in. Right now food is a good way to train. Once you start feeling less and less force in placing the pup in "kennel", you will eventually begin to point and say kennel and they will run in. Treats can be effective tools of encouragement, Labradors are like land sharks, they desire food constantly.

In addition it is important to mention crate behavior. The crate is their down time. Respect their space just like they will be respecting yours. Remind them it is down time by not talking to them and getting them to want to play but expect them to stay in kennel. They are growing pups so they need their sleep. It is helpful for the pup to know they have a safe place that is their spot. But just because they wake up in the crate don't quickly run to their rescue. Like a baby in a crib let them "hang-out" and get comfortable being in there. This will make such a big difference when they discover your house is an extension of the crate and when you say kennel they will run in content.

OUT
This command replaces "no". We do not use "no". "OUT" is a great command for ANYTHING you don't want them to have or do. Whether it is digging up your flowers, chasing a squirrel, or simply tugging on the leash when you're walking. If they have a shoe in your house try to replace it with something they can have, like one of their toys. You take the item (sometimes you may have to pry the mouth open) and say "out". Then you quickly replace it with their toy and say "good dog". A puppy's mouth is NEVER to be on a human's skin. They must learn this now. We take the puppy's lip and curl it around their teeth and squeeze it. It will pinch them so they will squeal. That is the only way they will learn. You can say "out" at the same time.

OFF
This will be used quite a bit with puppies. Just because of their size, they just can't seem to get close enough. If you bend down to their level less jumping may occur. But we can't always be on the ground, so the pup has to learn while they are young to not jump. By the time they are full grown they will not knock you over. If it is not corrected now, the behavior will possibly hurt someone and nobody enjoys being around a dog that jumps. Pay attention to a dogs level of sensitivity. Some dogs are very soft and it doesn't take much. Sometimes your voice alone is enough. But at this age they don't understand what you are asking. But eventually all you will have to do is put your hand out and the dog will comply. Reinforce the good behavior by having them go into a sit and then go down to their level and praise them.

Field Work
Puppy field work is followed by this rule: "Two retrieves a day keeps the trainer away". As an amateur trainer, I have learned the key to making a well-rounded puppy is working with them NOW. You can either nurture their natural desire or not. Once the desire to retrieve is gone, it may not come back. No matter what stage your pup is in during training, always train for a desired response and work towards leaving the training session with the dog mirroring their desire for affirmation.

THE RETRIEVE
1. Get down on the ground and gather puppy from behind by holding underneath the front shoulders and upper legs. Support puppy so back legs are on the ground. Face puppy in the direction you want him to run.
2. Make sure puppy is looking as you provide a dummy.
3. Release puppy as it is thrown away by saying their name.
4. Stay low and praise puppy as they pick it up.
5. Encourage the puppy to come back by saying their name and "here" along with the extra tricks…running backwards, cheering, clapping.
6. If they do come, take it up gently and praise them with affirmation. Make the puppy feel special.
7. Throw ONE MORE and then put them up. You want them wanting more, always leave with a desire to continue retrieving.
8. As they get older you can begin to hold them by the collar and have someone throw a small white bumper only a short distance so they clearly see it. Follow the same guidelines on the return and quantity- NO MORE THAN TWO.

Do's and Don'ts
1. Do expose them to different people, sounds, animals, children, and inside and outside environments.
2. Don't put them in a situation where they could get bit by another dog or even aggressive behavior. Control their environment with social wisdom. Stay away from group situations where the dogs are loose. It's not worth it. Wait until you know the dogs and it is a smaller group play time.
3. Do let them be a puppy.
4. Don't leave them to their own devices. They are a very sociable breed.
5. Don't shoot over your pup! You will gradually transition them to the sound while training.
7. Don't let them nibble or bite. Say the command "out" even if you have to tuck their lip under their own teeth and squeeze.


Personal Profile of the Labrador Retriever

  • Active, responsive, and strong dogs that have intelligent eyes, and a soft/gentle mouth
  • Typically stockier dogs are from 'show' and/or 'english show' type breeding while the narrower dogs are from 'working' and/or 'sporting' backgrounds
  • Double coat (undercoat is weather resistant, outer coat is short and dense)
  • Otter tails are short and associated more with stockier ‘show type’ dogs
  • Longer tails are associated with slimmer ‘working type’ and/or 'sporting' dogs
  • Good nose (meaning sensitive and able to recognize a wide range of scents together with their associations)

    Sizes:
  • Medium sized dogs
  • Weigh from approximately 55 lbs to 75 lbs (Weight varies from Dogs to Bitches)
  • Height from approximately 21.5 inches to 24.5 inches (Height varies from Dogs to Bitches)

    Temperament:
  • Intelligent, easy to train, suited to obedience/field sports/search and rescue dogs/guide and hearing dogs
  • Relational companionship is a must and are not suited to spending long periods of time alone.
  • High energy
  • Low levels of aggression
  • Highly compatible with other animals
  • Highly suitable for families with children
  • Affectionate and good natured - patient, outgoing, and loyal family member that enjoys retrieving and water dog related activities.
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Whelped 3/27/12 
12 puppies
4 males & 8 females
*All puppies SOLD
Contact Patrick at 314-420-2600